Monday, September 20, 2010

Spring 2011 remainder quickies: Pamella Roland, Gottex, Adrienne Vittadini, Loris Diran & Rebecca Moses

Pamella Roland
I generally love presentations, because you can get in and out in under 20 minutes (usually), however, they tend to work better for less showy clothing. I really wished that Pamella Roland, who makes age-appropriate sportswear and lovely red-carpet gowns, had elected to show on the runway instead, because I felt that her elegant clothes weren't getting the attention they deserved. That's because Roland throws quite a good party--I ran into one of my favorite fellow bloggers, The Shophound, and spotted Hilary Swank (!), Lori Loughlin, Denise Richards, and Ramona Singer (from Real Housewives) in the crowd. And not only did this packed soiree have alcohol, but it had hors d'oeuvres too (if you go to enough fashion events, you realize how rare an occurrence food is). But why was I here? Oh yes, the clothes. They were inspired by Roland's trip to the Greek Isles, and my favorite section featured gowns in rich blues evocative of the Aegean Sea (and, helpfully, the program notes featured travel tips). However, next time I'd recommend not throwing a bash so good that it upstages the clothes.

Loris Diran
Loris Diran, on the other hand, makes clothes that are perfectly suited to a presentation, and watching his sun-faded, pastel spring collection slowly spin around on a huge turntable was the perfect way to experience it. A softer take on the neutral trend that was everywhere this season, Diran's collection was wearable and feminine yet directional too.

Gottex
There has always been a certain amount of spectacle involved in Gottex's fashion shows; like the Victoria's Secret "fashion show," wearability is not the point. However, while VS gets top-notch talent (okay, Gottex had Karolina Kurkova and Crystal Renn, who, by the way, is maybe a size 8) and a prime-time TV special, Gottex just seems incredibly out of touch with reality. Swimsuits sported weird peplums, super-high-cut legs, or ostentatious gemstones; looks were styled with exaggerated sun visors and campy chiffon capes. Not to mention, if you actually wore any of these swimsuits, you'd end up with comically patterned tan lines. If none of these suits was actually intended to be worn, and since the audience seemed to be filled with non-industry folk, like the investment bankers sitting behind me, I'm not quite sure what the point was.

Adrienne Vittadini
When I was younger, I had a pair of magenta cabbage-rose-print denim shorts by Adrienne Vittadini, and I wore the hell out of them. (Hey, it was the '80s.) The new design director, Kristiina Salminen, has clearly been plumbing the archives for ideas, because a series of floral-print looks totally took me back to 1988. The collection seemed geared toward the career gal, with lots of office-friendly shirtdresses and reliable cardigans. Judging by the number of executives in the space, expect this line to hit a mid-tier department store near you soon.

Rebecca Moses
Also a purveyor of wearable fashion, Rebecca Moses ran a coquettish thread through her spring collection, with bows here, leopard print there, and wearable looks throughout. Hemlines hit everywhere from above the knee to floor length, but sweet styling like mixed prints and exaggerated jewelry kept the collection youthful. I especially liked the daytime satin pieces and the cropped pegged pants. Everything was just on the flirty side of feminine, which, if you ask me, is where most girls want to be.

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