When & where: Monday, February 13 at 9 a.m., the Studio, Lincoln Center
Runway recap: After last season's sparkly, youthful outing (sequined rompers come to mind first), Jenny Packham took a more sophisticated, mature direction with a collection inspired by 1940s film noir—and perhaps to drive home this point, Dita Von Teese sat in the front row. The silhouette was unmistakably '40s, with strong, padded shoulders and narrow-hipped skirts, some bias-cut, some softly flared. Many of the looks were adorned with Packham's ornate beading, elevating them beyond the typical wartime aesthetic. Also notable: While there were definitely a share of sleeveless looks, many gowns had sleeves—I didn't know if this was an appeal to the modest Duchess of Cambridge or to an older customer. Which brings me to the styling. With such a true interpretation of '40s glamour in the clothing, I found the victory roll hairdos and button earrings made the models look incredibly matronly; looser, more youthful hair and natural makeup would have made the collection look more modern and less costume-y.
Bonus points: Packham's models did a full back-and-forth solo runway walk (normally there are at least two models walking at all times), which made the show go a bit longer than usual but allowed me to take, well, more than just a look at each look.
Where to buy: Shop online at JennyPackhamShop.com